You can make the same binding we put on your quilt. Here's how.

Start by determining the perimeter of your quilt top. Add the length and the width, in inches, and multiply by 2. This gives you the number of inches around your top and the amount of binding you will need. Add 10" to 20" extra depending on the size of your quilt.

Let's say your quilt top is 60" x 70". The perimeter will be (60 + 70) * 2 = 260". Add 20" just in case and we need 280" of binding.

Cut 2" wide strips for the wrap and 1" wide strips for the piping. (See photos above for definition of wrap and piping.) If you're cutting from standard 44" wide fabric divide the total length of the binding you need by 42 to determine the number of strips you need.

Continuing our example; 280"/42 = 6.67 or 7 strips.

Make sure your fabric is folded with the selvage edges on top of each other. If you have a mat with a grid on it, align the fold along a horizontal line. Use your straight edge to cut a narrow strip off one side to get a clean edge. Continue cutting 2" or 1" strips as needed.

Sew the pieces together using a bias seam, right sides together as shown above. Since I do a lot of these I've drawn a dotted line, in line with the needle, parallel to the direction the fabric will travel. This allow me to place the corner of the lower piece of fabric (barely visible) on the line assuring me of the correct angle.

After sewing together the pieces of the wrap and piping, trim the excess fabric from the seams to 1/4", press each, ironing the seams flat. Then fold the wrap fabric along the long axis with the right side out and iron it in half. This will create a fold mark which we will use as a guide when sewing the piping onto the wrap. (You may be able to skip this step after you've done a few bindings.) Notice the fold in the blue wrap fabric above. Do not press the piping fabric or you'll find it hard to keep the cording tight up against the inside of the fabric when you assemble the binding.

L to R; Bernina Foot-14, zipper foot with guide. Foot-30, pintuck, used to sew the binding to the top of the quilt. Foot-37 has 1/4" markings both behind the needle and in front of the needle for accurate pivoting at corners.

I use a #30 (Pintuck) foot which provides a groove for the cording and allows the needle to be adjusted sideways up close to the cording to construct the binding. Only the groove on the left is used. You'll need a similar foot for your machine.

Select a cording of size 4 or 5, which is larger. Look on the package for the mark shown above for the size. We use size 4.

Sew the piping to the wrap. Place the wrap, right side up, unfolded, with the piping on top. Fold the piping around your cording with the right side out. Notice the fold in the wrap in the left photo; lay the folded piping with the right side of the cording on the fold so that the needle sews in the fold with the cording ever so slightly to the left of the fold. It takes a few inches of sewing to get everything aligned so don't use the first few inches.

After sewing the 2 parts of the binding together it must be pressed again. Fold it in half with the right side out and most of the piping underneath. Press it being careful to keep the wrap fabric from being ironed onto the top of the piping. The corded part of the piping should be evenly exposed with a clear joint between the piping and the wrap. That's where we will stitch it to the quilt.

Using your Foot-37, a thread to match the back fabric, and a fairly high stitches per inch setting (you want the stitches fairly close together) start sewing on the back side of the quilt near the middle of one side. The guide lines on this foot will help you start and stop more accurately. If you don't have this foot use your regular foot. Leave about  6" of unsewn binding at the beginning. Align the non-piped edge of the binding with the edge of the quilt and sew exactly 1/4" in from the edge of the quilt.

 

Sew to exactly 1/4" from the next side of the quilt and stop with the needle down.

 

Rotate the quilt and binding 45 degrees as shown and sew to the corner and off the quilt.

 

Remove the quilt and binding from the machine and fold the binding as shown
in the next 2 photos.

Notice that the straight fold nearest the needle is even with the edge of the quilt.

Continue sewing on the next side exactly 1/4" from the previous edge (which is also even with the straight fold in the binding).

 

Your corner should look like this if all went well. Continue sewing all the sides and corners until you get back to where you started.

 

Sew to within about 4" of where your sewing started. In the unsewn area, press the binding down onto the quilt making a tight right angle where they join. Pin the joint as close as you can to the quilt then cut the excess off about 1" above the quilt.

Push the piping down around the cording enough so that you can trim the cording off where it will end on the quilt and not turn up the excess that you've pinned. You want the 2 trimmed pieces of cording to just butt each other on the quilt. No, it isn't easy.

 

Sew the ends of the binding together at the pin line. Make sure the 2 halves of the piping are lined up correctly. Don't let the top one slip in front of or behind the lower one. Yes, it hard to drag everything over so you can get the ends under the foot but that's what you have to do. That's why you leave several inches of slack before you sew the last 4" or so of the binding to the quilt.

This is what it should look like.

Almost done with the back now. Trim off the excess at an angle as shown.

Flatten the binding against the quilt. Everything should lay flat with no excess or tightness in the binding. If there is, you've got to fix it now. Fold the "ears" out against the binding and sew the remaining few inches as you did before.

Turn the quilt over so the top is up. Select a thread color to match the piping. Fold the binding over from the back, around the edge and over the top. Using your "cording" foot (either Foot-30 or Foot-14), shown way back at the beginning, and adjusting your needle sideways so it stitches in the ditch between the piping and the wrap, start sewing about 4" past the joint in the binding.

As you approach the corner, fold the next side down first then overlap the current edge as shown below.

Make sure the piping lines up correctly in the exact corner.

Continue sewing until the needle goes down in the exact corner of the piping ditch. Stop with the needle down. You may have to coax your foot over the hump produced by the several layers in the corner by lifting it slightly with your knee lever.

Rotate the quilt and continue sewing in the ditch. Continue sewing until you are a few inches from the joint in the binding.

Tuck the "ears" under the binding.

Using all 14 fingers hold the area over the "ears" down to keep them from escaping and align the rest of the binding properly. Sew the remaining portion of the binding. This area is thick from the many layers involved so you may have to relieve the foot pressure with your knee lever. Trim any stray threads.

The finished job; but notice that this quilt has a strange corner construction with stripes in part of the border and no stripes on other parts. See comments about edge stripes.